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The Kremlin is the place to which all Russian roads lead and from which
most Russian power emanates. Here Ivan the Terrible and Stalin orchestrated
their terrors; Napoleon watched Moscow burn; Lenin fashioned the dictatorship
of the proletariat; Khrushchev led communism in the Cold War; Gorbachev
unleashed perestroika (restructuring); and Yeltsin struggled to keep reform
afloat. The Kremlin occupies a roughly triangular plot of land covering
little Borovitsky Hill on the north bank of the , probably first settled in the 11th century. Today it's enclosed
by high walls. lies outside
the east wall. The , which
forms the main visitors' entrance, stands away from the Kremlin's west
wall.
- built in the 16th century on Red Square by
Ivan the Terrible to commemorate his successful military campaign against
the Tartar Mongols in the besieged city of Kazan, its mass of brightly
painted onion domes and turrets is now one of Moscow's best-known landmarks.
- beautiful 16th century convent founded by Vasily III in 1524 to commemorate
the recapture of Smolensk from the Lithuanians ten years earlier and the
resting place of some of Moscow's most famous artists, writers, politicians
and public figures.
- magnificent replica of the 19th century church designed by the architect
Konstantin Ton to commemorate Russia's victory over the French in the
Napoleonic Wars, which was demolished on Stalin's orders in the 1930s
but built anew in the 1990s to mark Moscow's 850th birthday.
A visiting 19th-century French aristocrat, the Marquis de Custine, described
the exterior of as
'a sort of irregular fruit bristling with excrescences, a cantaloupe melon
with embroidered edges'. The exterior is so magical that the interior
is a bit of an anticlimax. Nearby, you can still pay your respects at
. Bordering Red Square, the
magnificent
was built in the 19th century to house 1000 shops. The hefty building
north of Red Square is the stuff of nightmares and airport novels. It
housed the KGB and the notorious
- now home to the Federal Security Police.
A walk up the city's most famous thoroughfare, , reveals 19th-century palaces, 1930s apartment blocks and
glimmers of colour bouncing off the domes of half-obscured churches. , once the quarter of court artisans, is also a good place
for a stroll, passing elegant buildings, Stalinist eyesores and a pedestrian
precinct complete with buskers and souvenir-sellers. As much a fabulous
museum as it is an underground transport system, Moscow's famous
survives in all its constructivist glory, with more chandeliers than Buckingham
Palace and enough marble to fit out the kitchens of the world. Forty-four
of its stations have been designated as architectural landmarks.
, in the south-west
of the inner city, boasts a broad selection of European works from the
Renaissance onward - mostly confiscated from private collections after
the revolution.
The , near Gorky Park,
has the world's best collection of Russian icons and a fine collection
of pre-revolutionary Russian art. The , next to the new Tretyakov Gallery building, is
one of the places you're most likely to find good contemporary art. Past
shows have ranged from 19th-century sacred art to the works of Gilbert
& George. There are also numerous , usually situated in the houses of famous writers, such
as Tolstoy, Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Gogol and Lermontov.
The most famous of Moscow's parks and gardens is Gorky Park, etched into
Western consciousness thanks to a best-selling novel, a blockbuster movie
and William Hurt's furry hat. The park stretches almost 3km (1mi) along
the river and is a combination of ornamental garden, funfair and entertainment
zone, hosting everything from science lectures to rock concerts in its
auditoria. In summer, boats leave from the pier on river excursions, and
in winter the ponds freeze over, transforming the park into a huge ice-skating
rink.
The Novodevichy Convent (New Convent of the Maidens), a cluster of 16
sparkling domes behind turreted walls in the south-western loop of the
Moscow River, is perhaps the most beautiful of the city's convents. The
convent was popular with noblewomen, who would often retire here, but
it was also used as a prison for rebellious royals, including Peter the
Great's half-sister and his first wife. The convent's cemetery is Moscow's
most prestigious resting place after the Kremlin wall. Sleeping peacefully
are Chekhov, Eisenstein, Gogol, Khrushchev, Kropotkin, Mayakovsky, Prokofiev,
Stanislavsky and Shostakovich. A recent addition is Raisa Gorbacheva,
wife of the last great Soviet president.
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